2024 Spain Part 5
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- Thu 1st Feb
Today we visited Europe’s biggest geode – but I am getting rather ahead of myself.
Last night we spent in a private M/H campsite in Anibal. Not very nice, over 100 spaces, almost full. They must be racking it in, $11.00 per night. Looking on the map, I found a castle on a headland, with a road winding up to it, and thought that would be a nice start to today. Only about 20 Kms away. Another grey day with thick cloud cover, until the afternoon, which was sunny.
Anyway, we reached the castle, a bit of a two up two down affair. Castillo De San Juan de los Terreros.
The name almost bigger than the castillo.
Built in the 18th century. Look at the first picture again. The top has arrow slits. And, from inside they are arrow slits. Bows and arrows in the 18th century? Anyway, the view was excellent.
And, all those white blobs are M/H parked on the beach. And that is just a fraction of the number we have seen wild camping round here. Great pity so many are now doing this, it gets overdone, residents complain, and restrictions are imposed. OK, we are part of the problem.
Anyway, we were summonsed by the castle attendant to sit at a desk, and were each fitted with a virtual reality set of goggles, at this stage no idea why, but I was delighted, as never had experienced them, and always wanted to.
And, what we were immersed in was going down a mine, and finding Europes biggest geode, and going inside it. Quite extraordinary.
When we returned to our vehicle, looked up Pulpi Geode, website was unclear and contradictory, but seemed worth investigating. Wasn’t too far away, so drove there, found a posh building and a car park. We were told there was a tour available at 4.30, so we booked, and had a rather monotonous three and a half hour wait.
But then, we were taken down the mine, walking through tunnels hewn in the rock, some impressive big chambers, all blasted out in the hunt for silver, iron, and crystals.
There were many dazzling crystals glinting in the light. At one time the guide (Alfonso) used ultra violet light, illuminating iridescent blues, orange, yellow, and the odd spot of green.
And then to the geode,
8 meters long and 2 meters high, made of gypsum crystals. We were not allowed to photograph, but the guide obliged (for a remarkably modest fee).
The entrance to the geode behind us, we were able to clamber half in, and look to our left into this huge crystal cavern. Quite extraordinary. A superbly unplanned day!
The mine site from the car park.
This is a picture of the inside of the geode, pinched from the internet, and this is what we saw.
Except without the girl………
- Fri 2nd FebA slow drive along the coast through attractive scenery, then a fast drive along a motorway into Almeria. We have been here before, but didn’t go into town. This time we did.
Almost two for one! A cathedral and almost a castle!
Built in the mid 1500’s, Almeria was under threat from moorish incursions, so the cathedral was built to withstand attack, even to the extent of having castellations. Also, not very lofty, because of the threat of cannon fire.
The cloisters.
Inside…
An arch detail
Made all the more interesting by a surprisingly informative audio guide.
- Sat 3rd FebDecided the Almeria TIC was too difficult to get to, and there is one at Abucina, in the direction we want to go, up in the Sierra Nevada. Open until 2.00 pm. So set, and was astonished to find we were travelling along a motorway. Thought it would be a pleasant meander through small villages clambering up into the hills. The scenery was excellent, and we certainly went up. We could see the old road, alongside the motorway, so that would just be slower but no more fun.
Eventually arrived at Abucina about 11.45, plenty of time, and set off following Google maps for the TIC. Toiling up narrow roads through the town. Not too many wrong turns. Eventually, Google said I was close, and an attractive painted sign pointed to the TIC. No TIC. The attractive cul de sac was a Caja Rural. A very helpful non English speaking man eventually understood my problem, and directed me down to the church, which we could see a zillion feet below us.
So, I set off for the church, and found an elderly lady, who gave me explicit directions. I think. All in Spanish. And no sign language or pointing. So, I carried on, and a group of people (still no English), didn’t know but seemed to suggest I try in a bar just down the road.
The guy in the bar did understand, and directed me to a roundabout just down the road. The roundabout we had encountered as we entered Abucina, fiveteen mountains ago.
So, I went down to the roundabout, and sure enough, there was a brand new ugly box building proudly proclaiming “Tourist Information”.
Closed.
Clearly the builders and users of said facility realised that no one would want to know their opening hours. After all, why would they?
I know I’m being unreasonable. I should just sit outside until Monday morning.
But I ain’t.
Decided to stay here the night, and late afternoon, in the cooling air(another cloudless day), went for a drink in a rather shabby bar, with an outside in the sun. We are at an altitude of just over 3,200 feet. The wine came with some almonds and a couple of slices of cheese each, and very nice it was.
Whilst on the subject of cheese, on this trip, and previous incursions into Spain, we have found some very nice Spanish cheese, something we don’t see back in the UK. I wonder why not….
What a lot I have written about nothing, the wine must have made me garrulous. - A scenic drive and getting older.
A very slow drive through the length of the Sierra Navada. And, today is my birthday, another year slithers by.
Mostly back roads, narrow, twisty, steep, and very scenic.
Some pictures taken en route.
Notice the cloudless sky, what a day for a scenic drive.
Snow capped mountains in the background.
And, our secluded stop for the night, at an altitude of just over 5,000 feet.
- Mon 5th Feb
Another bright clear day. Just opposite our parking space, a marked cross country walking route crosses the road, so Josie and I set off up the hill, on a rugged and very steep path. We climbed very high, Josie running about happily, and I wheezing and gasping. Probably climbed about 300 feet, and came to a particularly steep bit. At the top of this was a road. Huh! I found this rather disheartening, so went back down.
Set off for Granada, via an Aldi, the reliable source for organic milk. There were two Aldi’s in the town just outside Granada, the first seemed to be in a very busy area of narrow roads, we never saw it, the second was in a huge retail complex, and we did see a sign for it, but never managed to get anywhere close, amongst a muddle of incredibly complicated junctions and roundabouts, and incessant traffic. We gave up.
Spain really does go out of its way to make even the simplest junction contorted. Very often, to turn left (baring in mind driving on the right), one has to turn right, go round a semicircle, and then cross two lines of traffic instead of one. And, roundabouts with junctions at the entrance, plus pedestrian crossings immediately on the exit, so vehicles stopping for the crossing back up round the roundabout. I’ve often said the only way their complicated traffic system function is because there is so little traffic relative to the UK.
Anyway, we continued to Granada, I wanted to arrive early, because there is only one MH parking adjacent to a tram line into the town centre, so essential we park there, then Josie in the backpack frontpack doesn’t have to pass the eagle eye of a bus driver protecting their passengers from our ferocious hound.
And it worked. Not a nice place, a rectangular gravelled space bound by high walls, and a gate locked at night. But, the tram line adjacent.
So, went into Granada, first stop the TIC. No dogs allowed. When inquired why, was told “allergies”. So, Sue and Josie waited outside, and I was given a street map of Granada. I asked the lady what sights we should go to, and where they are. I also asked her about the area outside Granada, the province of Granada. She doesn’t do that, you have to go to another tourist office.
She waved a pen vaguely over the Granada map, and rattled off a list off names, far too quickly for me to have any chance of keeping up. I left the office non the wiser. The only map they had was in Spanish. OK, I’m being unreasonable again. Why would a tourist office in an important tourist destination expect to be visited by Damn Foreigners. I was not enamoured.
We did know we wanted to visit the cathedral, a short distance away. In I went, and was offered a single ticket (€6), or a combination ticket for five sights for €23. Ah, buy that and we know four other places to go! So, that set us up nicely.
The cathedral….
The ticket showed one of the attractions was “Capilla”. Capilla Royale was just round the corner, according to the map. I found a Capilla, but not Royale, but nevertheless went in. Capilla Royale – no photos.
These from Capilla non Royale.
From there, a 15 minute walk to the monastery of San Jeronimo.
Is this a female warrior, or an effete male warrior? Was it painted on a pillar in the chapel so monks could fantasise during boring sermons…..
- Tue 6th FebWe tried to go to our next site on our multi ticket, Monastereo Paseo Cartuja. We had been warned parking would be a problem, and so it was. After fruitlessly driving round, we gave up and went to the final destination, Abadia de Sacramento, another monastery, unfortunately quite a bit of it derelict.
In all these visits, we were never allowed upstairs, although sometimes we were allowed tantalising glimpses. This was quite plain, but the route led to The Holy Caves.
Very strange, entirely man made.
Then, we tried again for Cartuja. By now, I had a fair idea of the road layout, up and down a very steep hill, and happened upon a parking space way above the monastery, so off we went.
The outside.
Cloisters.
This monastery is noted for its paintings. I thought many of them were dreadfully poor.
An example.
Very many of then we’re painted by the same artist, Cotán.
Something I didn’t notice, but Sue did, on a painting of the last supper, a detail
On another painting by the same artist, the same dog…? His.
And then into the chapel.
- Wow Factor!
- More Wow
- Wed 7th FebA slow drive back through the Sierra Navada to Guadix, a city that promises much – cave dwellings, dolomites, and more.
Lunch at 3,200 feet.
I’m really surprised at how much of Spain is so high. Lots of stuff under us!
- Thu 9th FebArrived at the “cave house interpretation centre” in time for it’s opening at 10.00pm, only to find a note pinned to the notice board stating “first tour today 11.30”.
So, found a launderette and did the washing.
Went back to the cave house, all was well and very interesting. After a not impressive five minute introductory video, the tour was a cave house inhabited by one couple from 1928 until 1980. The house, which we were told is typical, consisted of two interlinked tunnels, each with its own entrance, both consisting of three small rooms, the first tunnel with a living room and two bedrooms, the second with a kitchen, a stable, and a pigsty. All rooms were very small.
The living room, bedroom behind.
Bedroom.
The view from the kitchen.
The pigsty.
There are loads of these cave houses in Guadix and the surrounding area, most still lived in. Their advantage is cool in the summer, and warm in the winter. And cheap! Many of them are holiday let’s, and for modern living, most have additions to the entrance – bathroom, kitchen, added electricity, plumbing and so on.
A View over one of the areas, showing the distinctive chimneys they all have. What I found amusing, and incongruous, is some of these chimneys pocking out from a hillock, and satellite dish pocking out next to it!
After lunch, we went on the circular road marked, on our tourist map, past prehistoric structures, all contained in a “geopark”. Around 50 miles in all. After driving about halfway, through very interesting scenery, we both felt tired. Whilst in Spain….we had a siesta.
Then drove on, came to a small town, marked on our map, which had an “interpretation centre”. After much difficulty, I set off on foot up a really steep passage, following Google maps, until I eventually came to the centre. Very clearly according to Google. It was a private house, with a tethered dog outside, with the loudest bark ever. And he wouldn’t shut up.
Gave up, and continued on our way. Lots of signs showing pictures of Stone Age people moving rocks, burying their dead, hunting and so on. No indication anywhere where their dolmens are, or indeed if their are any, just pictures on a tourist map. It was an enjoyable drive through incredible scenery, and emphasised what seems to be the Spanish trait of not providing the last piece of information one would like.
