Mick Paskins Blog

2024 Spain Part 3

2024 Spain Part 3

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  • Onda
    Everything pulled together today. I fine sunny day, pleasantly warm, no wind. A town with a castle atop a steep hill, a pamphlet from the TIC detailing a walk up the hill through the old town, showing and describing interesting historical points of interest, and in English.
    Sun rise this morning in Castello….
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    Then, toiling up the narrow streets of Onda….
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    A well earned rest….
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    The route to here was the narrow gap to the left of the fence. There are a lot of houses in these narrow passages, all seemingly occupied, which must be very inconvenient. Are these “des res” properties (didn’t look like it), or people trapped in a cheap property, and cannot afford to move out. Didn’t look particularly poor.

  • Onda continued
    The castle at the top of the hill.
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    The view from the top
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    Looking up from where we parkeD.

  • Sun 14thJan
    We have encountered taps with much smaller diameter hose connections than I have seen before, so went to a Leroy Merlin store (a B&Q equivalent), to buy a new one – they are now €3.19 better off. Not something I would bother to mention, except, I was looking for a 15mm connector. Wrong! Half inch. Plumbing dimensions in Spain and France are all imperial measurements. Ironic that UK, which resisted metric with some success, has all plumbing dimensions in metric. Whilst on this subject, when we were fitting out our house, we bought a load of stuff from ikea. I thought the measurements (metric) were very complex, not 1 metre, 2 metres, but 997 mm, 2012 mm, something like that. When I measured a unit, it turned out they were imperial sizes converted. So, it seems Sweden may be in a muddle too.
    There is a Roman site just outside town, wasn’t expecting much, which was just as well.
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    Moved on to a church with, apparently, a very interesting interior.

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    The church, closed.
    Was in a very nice setting on the side of a valley, with lots of picnic tables, BBQ’s, set amongst very tall pines. And, whilst there, I saw a squirrel, rich brown fur, and tufted ears.
    Next stop a castle. L’alcalaten. A dirt track up the side of a very steep hill, Sue being nervous, with numerous twists and turns, but a small parking area at the end of the track. Then a haul up to the castle.
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    It really was that small!

    The view from the top.
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    That ramp was steep.
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    And so was that track.
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    We have found this before throughout Southern Europe, really small castles, difficult to understand how they could be viable. But, someone thought it worth the effort, and lugging the building materials up there would be an enormous effort.

    This is where we are parked for tonight.

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    Now, this is very curious. To try and avoid the many overcrowded coastal sites, we selected an inland one (from very few available), that required a phone call for access. That could be a problem. But anyway, I entered the coordinates into the SatNav, and off we went. We were turned off a main road onto a single track concrete drive, for about 2kms, and ended up at this spot. The SatNav said “you have reached your destination”. This is not the place we were aiming for, and it does not appear on any motorhome parking apps. However, a person I met soon after arriving, and so far the only person I have seen, said it was fine to stay here.
    There is a signboard up describing it as Centro de torismo rural. Oh well, that’s very nice, so far the only sound we have heard is the wind rustling the trees.

  • 15th May
    Left our remote parking after a very quiet night, and drove to Ares del Maestra, a hilltop town topped by a castle. Was well worth toiling up the hill to the old town, as there were about 15 information boards detailing interesting bits of history. In three languages, including English. Made it all very enjoyable.
    One of the problems we encounter is that, not knowing much about Spanish history, allusions are made to events that we know nothing about. For instance, the castle was demolished in the 1300’s during the Carlist uprising.
    The view looking down on the old town
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    One of the streets in the old town.
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    Looking back at the town.
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    We are now in Morella, and another bigger looking hilltop town and castle.

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    And, we are back up at above 3,000 feet. This area inland from the Mediterranean coast is very arid, all water courses we have seen are dry, and very sparsely populated. Rugged, spectacular scenery, and very slow windy roads.

  • Tue 16th Jan

    Drove to a car park below the castle walls, and started the mighty uphill trek.
    The entrance into the walled city.

    First stop en route was the church of Santa Maria la Major. A fine Gothic building.

    Stairway decoration

    Then onto the castle.

    Getting closer.
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    The Governor’s House, cut into the rock.
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    When we arrived for the final assalt, 98 stairs cut into the rock Sue decided she just couldn’t make it. We really are beginning to stumble around like old people. She didn’t actually miss much.
    The flattish summit.

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    The view

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    Either there was a very castle like lump of rock, or a great deal of the castle we weren’t allowed in. I suspect the latter.
    The castle was still in use in the 19th century, artillery replacing canons, and of course over the years, a great many changes.

  • Not another castle.
    Yesterday afternoon we had driven to Alcaniz, to visit the castle there. Part of it has been turned into a Parador Hotel, and therefore would have a car park – no hill climbing. I had entered the car park into the SatNav, and off we went. Directed to turn left up a steep narrow road. SatNav obviously thought it ok. I thought it ok, but I had missed the turning in heavy traffic. Sue didn’t think it was ok. Which didn’t really matter, because by now we were in a mess of narrow roads, one way streets, ominous signs promising low headroom and narrow passages. Finally managed to extract ourselves from the old town, via a very run down and poor looking street, and fled Alcaniz.
    This was always the plan, to go to Vinaros on the coast. The weather, although not cold, has been slowly declining, no sun, some wind, slightly less mild, and some rain last night. Dropping out of the hills to the coast will, we hope, escape the cloud. And drop out we did. From a bit over 4,000 feet to sea level in about 30 miles. To be greeted by bright sunshine and 22 degrees. And, a car park without about 40 motorhomes in it. So, we joined them, and found a nice restaurant round the corner, our first this trip. The rest is a blur. Except for the church we looked at waiting for the restaurant to open.
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    The outside was the most interesting bit.

  • Thu 18th Jan

    The TIC advised us to go to the impressively named Santuari de La Mare de Due de La Misericordia de Vinaros, 6 km outside Vinaros.

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    From there, we travelled further down the coast on a warm sunny dat to Peniscola, and the castle atop a rocky peninsular.
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    Looking down on Peniscolar lighthouse.

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    If my interpretation of the audio display is correct, the Nights Templar came here after their defeat at Acre, and this was their last stronghold, until they were defeated.
    It subsequently became a papal seat, making it one of three, Peniscolar, Avignon, and of course Rome.
    A street in the old town.
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    A well earned drink after all that climbing.
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